SWAN UPPING
Swan Upping returns to Cookham: a living tradition
This July, the River Thames will once again host the historic Swan Upping ceremony, a royal tradition dating back to the 12th century. As the flotilla of skiffs glides past the village of Cookham, visitors will witness a spectacle of pageantry, and heritage—just as Stanley Spencer once did.
Swan Upping is the annual census of the swan population on stretches of the Thames in the counties of Middlesex, Surrey, Buckinghamshire, Berkshire and Oxfordshire. This historic ceremony dates from the twelfth century, when the Crown claimed ownership of all mute swans. The King’s Swan Marker and the accompanying Swan Uppers of the Vintners’ and Dyers’ Livery Companies use six traditional Thames rowing skiffs in their five-day journey upstream to Abingdon.
Stanley Spencer and Swan Upping
Stanley Spencer’s deep connection to Cookham and its traditions is beautifully captured in his painting “Swan Upping at Cookham” (1915–19). In this work, Spencer transforms the ceremonial into the spiritual, portraying the Swan Uppers as almost angelic figures, gliding through a dreamlike river landscape. The painting is held in the Tate collection, but its spirit lives on in Cookham every July.
Visitors to the Gallery can also explore Spencer’s “Christ Preaching at Cookham Regatta”, the centerpiece of the current summer exhibition. Though unfinished, this monumental painting reflects Spencer’s vision of Cookham as a sacred space where the divine and the everyday intertwine.
Other works to look out for during your visit include:
– “Dinner on the Hotel Lawn” – a serene depiction of communal life by the river.
Where to Watch Swan Upping in Cookham
For the best views of the Swan Upping procession near the Stanley Spencer Gallery, check out:
– The Ferry, Cookham: with panoramic views of the Thames, this riverside pub offers a front-row seat to the action.
– Cookham Moor and the Towpath: Just steps from the Gallery, the towpath along the riverbank provides an open, scenic view of the boats and swan markers as they pass.
You can even watch from Cookham Bridge !
The Swan Uppers reach Cookham Bridge on Tues July 15th at 1.30pm.